Just Friends: RUN Jack Upgrade Walkthrough
This guide walks you through the process of upgrading a first-edition Just Friends module's RUN jack. The process involves full disassembly of the module, removing the RUN jack, installing a modified jack with inline resistor, reassembly & testing.
These two videos outline the process with bulleted instructions below. Making your own modified jack is only covered in the photos below.
password for both videos: friendly.
remove art-board from rear of module (2x phillips head screws)
remove knobs (just pull off)
loosen all jacks & nuts on pots
pull the faceplate off, making sure not to lose all of the LED light pipes
remove the lightpipes from the pcb / panel
remove the washers on the top two pots
remove RUN jack:
use wire cutters to cut out the existing RUN jack
start with the leg at the edge of the pcb
next remove the upper/lower legs of the jack (you can bend the jack up now for better access)
finally remove last leg (it can be easier if you bend the metal part out of the way).
now remove the ends of the jack-legs:
- heat up a pad with your soldering iron, then hit the pcb on a flat surface to knock the leg out.
- alternatively, you can use tweezers to pull the leg out.
finally, use desolder the pcb pads making sure the whole slot is clear of solder. i use solder wick, but a solder sucker will work too.
- make sure to minimize the amount of time the iron is on the board to avoid damage to the traces.
create the replacement jack:
take a new jack and snip off the switch leg (this is the pin towards the bottom edge of the module when the jack is installed).
take a small 6k8 resistor (anything 4k7 to 10k should work) and trim one end of the lead to ~8mm.
now bend both ends of the resistor as shown. the long resistor leg becomes the new jack-lead.
solder the short end inside the jack making sure no leads will short.
insert the modified jack into the pcb, pulling gently on the resistor lead to make sure it’s well seated.
IMPORTANT: note how the lead has been bent to be *beside* the body of the resistor. This is necessary in order to allow the jack to sit flush against the pcb.
solder the jack in place & snip the resistor lead.
use a multimeter to make sure there is matching resistance between top & bottom (tip & switch) leads. make sure neither tip or switch is bridged to ground (side pins).
insert a cable into the jack and confirm tip & switch are no longer connected.
make a mark on the the RUN jack. we do a red high-heel shoe emoji, but just make sure you use a permanent marker that won't rub off so future users know the module has been updated.
- insert the lightpipes into the PCB (not the panel). this can be fiddly, but you’ll get there. gently press them into the pcb.
- place 2/3 washers on the top two pots (this keeps the panel perpendicular to the pcb).
- place the panel onto the board. you’ll now need to align the lightpipes while you press the two parts together
- they should be close when you start (otherwise remove the panel and realign the lightpipes first)
- you can use a pair of tweezers / a pin, to gently nudge the lightpipes into place through the holes in the panel
- work from one side to the other, and you should feel the panel come together.
- now replace all the nuts, at first softly, then just beyond finger tight with a nut driver.
- note: when tightening the pot’s nuts, start with TIME & INTONE (the 2 pots with washers) until they’re tight, then tighten the remaining pots only just to finger tight to avoid bending the faceplate.
- replace the knobs & screw the second pcb back onto the rear of the module.
- primary thing to test is that the RUN jack successfully switches in & out of RUN modes.
- set the mode switches to CYCLE & SHAPE. without a RUN cable the lights should be flashing, when attached they will stop.